Shared between Chile and Argentina, Patagonia is one of the least populated regions in the world. Its southern climate and breathtaking landscapes make it a mythical place where nature is preserved, especially thanks to numerous national parks. Among these is the famous Torres del Paine, located in the Magallanes and Chilean Antarctic region. This park, designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, is often regarded as the eighth wonder of the world. That’s where I decided to embark on my journey solo, aiming to explore Patagonia by undertaking the W trek independently. The plan included discovering lakes, glaciers, valleys, and mountains, culminating in the famous granite towers that gave the park its name.
Planning a Trek in Torres del Paine Park
If you wish to explore Patagonia, especially Torres del Paine, it’s essential to prepare in advance, starting with choosing your trek. You can opt for day hikes, or undertake the W or O trek to experience the park. The most famous route is the W, allowing you to see the park’s iconic places, generally completed in four to five days. The O trek is longer, requiring between 8 to 10 days to complete the loop.
Once I chose to do the W trek, I had to decide which direction to take it: the original way (east to west) or the reverse (west to east). I opted for the latter to finish the trek on a high note, concluding with the famous Torres del Paine.
Booking Accommodations
After selecting your route, you need to choose and reserve your accommodations. Two companies operate within the park: Fantastico Sur in the east and Vertice in the west. You can reserve a refuge or camp (with refuge prices being quite high). I decided to travel in January and bring my own camping gear to save money and have a more authentic adventure. Overall, I spent just over €100 for four nights in the park. This is the minimum cost, as it only includes the camping spot. It’s also essential to plan your trek according to your abilities to select the right sites for your accommodations.
Attention! If you plan to go during peak season (between January and February), it is necessary to book your accommodations several months in advance (at least 6 months). Although the park is considered one of the world’s most beautiful, it is also extremely popular and fills up quickly. Without reservations, it will be impossible to stay in the park for several days.
Equipment
The choice of your equipment and the weight of your backpack will depend greatly on your plans. If you’re staying in refuges with full board, you won’t need much gear. However, if you decide to go like I did, some items are essential:
- A sturdy tent: The winds can be very strong in Patagonia, and a flimsy tent might blow away.
- A good sleeping bag: Nights can be quite chilly, even in summer.
- A sleeping pad: To insulate yourself from the cold ground.
- A stove with gas: Cooking spots are available in the refuges and camps. Fires are strictly prohibited.
- Food: I recommend lightweight, freeze-dried food that takes up little space.
- Various clothing: Weather can change multiple times in a day, so warm clothes, rain gear, and lighter outfits are essential.
- Sun protection, a cap, gloves, and a beanie.
- Trekking poles.
- A good backpack.
If you’re going alone, optimizing the weight of your backpack is crucial. Mine weighed about fifteen kilos (which is challenging to reduce when carrying everything solo). This adds an extra challenge to the trek!
Reaching Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine
Before heading to the national park, you first need to get to the nearest town, Puerto Natales. Living in Santiago, Chile, I first took a flight to Punta Arenas (about three hours). Upon exiting the airport, I quickly found a shuttle to Puerto Natales. After a three-hour bus ride, I arrived in a small town mainly made up of small houses, numerous hostels, and stores selling food and trekking gear. You can only catch a bus to Torres del Paine the following day at 7:30 AM. It’s easy to meet people in this town, as it is a hub for all hikers. When I was there, I met a young man who had worked for several months as a guide in the park. He shared tips with me all evening over a good South American beer.
Many buses leave daily for Torres del Paine. The two to three-hour ride offers a taste of what’s to come: the landscapes are stunning, resembling a movie scene! The first stop is at the park entrance to pay the entry fee, which is about thirty euros for non-residents, regardless of whether you stay for just a day or several days. Accommodation reservations are also checked. Afterward, you catch the bus or a shuttle to your chosen starting point. The adventure can begin!
Highlights of the W Trek
Lake Pehoé
You can’t start (or finish) the W trek without admiring Lake Pehoé and its turquoise waters. Since I decided to begin the trek from the west, the bus took me to Pudeto. Once there, you need to take a catamaran, costing around twenty euros.
The thirty-minute crossing on Lake Pehoé is truly worth it: the water color is stunning, and the view of the Cuernos del Paine is breathtaking. It’s a magical moment before the trek begins. Once at Paine Grande, you’re ready to start the hike.
Grey Glacier
The Grey Glacier is a must-see in Torres del Paine. It’s about an 11-kilometer walk to get there. This first hike showcases the power of the wind in Patagonia. When I reached the lagoon of the Patos, I struggled to move forward due to the strong winds. Despite that, the view is exceptional: you can see Lake Grey, dotted with drifting icebergs. After several breaks, it took me about five hours of walking to reach the campground just meters away from the glacier. I immediately went to see the glacier and spent a good while there; it was my first time witnessing one of this size. The Grey Glacier is part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, the third-largest glacier cap in the world, after Antarctica and Greenland. The second day of trekking was quite relaxed for me, as I retraced my steps back to Paine Grande.
The French Valley
The third day of the W trek allows you to explore the French Valley, particularly the French Glacier and the British viewpoint. I decided to start from the Paine Grande refuge, visit the valley during the day, and reach the French campground by evening. Overall, around 9 hours of walking are needed to cover the 22 kilometers. Again, the day was rich in scenery: views of Lake Skottsberg, the Cuernos del Paine, crossing a suspension bridge, and navigating through the forest to reach the Italiano campground. I recommend dropping your backpack at the campground as they are monitored and secure. Then, you need to climb through the forest and rocks to reach the French viewpoint. The glacier is located on the Paine Massif, where you can observe blocks of ice breaking off and falling into the void. Afterward, you continue trekking to the British viewpoint, which offers panoramic views of the massif. The end of the day involves retracing your steps back to the Italian campground, then continuing to the French campground.
Los Cuernos del Paine
On my fourth day of trekking, I headed towards the Chileno refuge. This 15-kilometer hike lasts between 8 to 9 hours. You traverse suspension bridges along the shore of Lake Nordenskjöld, with the imposing Cuernos del Paine in the background. These three horn-shaped peaks are dark at the top and bottom, with granite in the middle. You can observe them throughout the trek, particularly on this fourth day of walking. After completing this leg, the scenery shifts. I found myself crossing meadows before arriving at the route leading to the Chileno refuge. I was lucky with perfect weather until then, but then experienced rain and wind. I arrived at the refuge in the late afternoon.
Base of the Towers Viewpoint
To finish the W trek beautifully, you must visit the Torres viewpoint. This spot is extremely popular with day hikers and can quickly become a “tourist highway” during the day. To avoid this, I recommend sleeping at the Chileno refuge and departing overnight to see the Towers. I woke up at 2 AM, packed my stuff, left my backpack in the refuge, and set out at 3 AM with my headlamp. Along the way, I encountered a few others who decided to follow a similar plan. It takes about two and a half hours to get there: first, you walk through the woods for an hour and a half, then scramble over huge rock blocks for another hour. By 5:30 AM, I was the first to arrive. I set up facing the lake and awaited the sunrise. Unfortunately, the weather was not great; it drizzled a bit, and there were many clouds. They partially cleared, finally allowing me to see the three granite towers and their lake. I spent a long time observing them before descending through the valley, completing this five-day trek.
I highly recommend undertaking this trek and exploring Torres del Paine National Park. When I visited in January 2023, I feared being overwhelmed by tourists, but that was not the case, possibly due to recent protests in Chile. I was fortunate to feel somewhat alone in the park and enjoyed beautiful weather almost every day. Even though prices are quite high within the park, it’s truly worth it. It’s a magnificent experience and a journey to undertake at least once in a lifetime.
