After 730 km of hitchhiking from Bahia Blanca, we arrive in Puerto Madryn, where we meet two French women who advise us to go directly to Puerto Pirámides, located in the Biedma department, in the province of Chubut. We are already impressed by the Valdes Peninsula!
The hallmark of this region is the contrast of colors between the ochre, brown, and green tones of the Patagonian plateau and the blue-green of the sea at the foot of the cliffs that mark the end of the plateau. There are also sandy and pebble beaches that gently slope towards the sea.
The Valdes Peninsula is a natural park with unmatched biodiversity in Argentina! It is especially known for its southern right whales and orcas (present from June to December). Unfortunately, we are not here at the right time, but we remain optimistic nonetheless.
We spend our first evening in Puerto Pirámides without planning anything for the next day. (The prices for visiting the entire peninsula are quite high, easily reaching 25/30€ per person, which is totally out of our budget!). We consider renting a car with others, but there are few tourists, and rentals are only available from Puerto Madryn. Expect to pay 650 pesos (39€) to rent a car.
But luck is on our side! We meet Seb & Béli, two Guianans touring the continent in a van! Adorable, we end up spending the evening together until 3 AM… They offer to take us with them the next day to visit the peninsula! We jump at the opportunity, and the meeting is set for 7:30 AM. Off we go for a big, beautiful day…
Guanacos, Rheas, armadillos, penguins, sea lions, elephants (bigger than a sea lion, 3.5 tons!), we are awestruck by the wildlife on the Valdes Peninsula…
The day before, orcas had been spotted… We wait over four hours, in vain!
No regrets, though, after this amazing day on the road amidst breathtaking landscapes.
Our top tips:
Where to sleep:
- The campground right next to the bus station, for 5€/person. You can’t miss it; it’s the only one!
- Aloa Hostel, located at the top of the village along Avenida de las Ballenas, for 12/13€ per person, and very clean!
Other must-see sites on the Valdes Peninsula are Isla de los Pájaros, home to many birds, and the reconstructed chapel of Fort San José, which was destroyed in 1810. Also, Punta Delgada with its colonies of elephant seals, Caleta Valdés, and Punta Norte, two other sites also overrun by elephant seals.
We recommend planning your trip to Argentina with a responsible and sustainable agency.