Meeting the Akha People in Northern Laos

While most travelers visiting Laos go to Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng, Vientiane, and the 4000 Islands, only a handful decide to embark on a journey to the northern part of the country to reach Phongsali province. The reward for venturing to this remote area is the opportunity to visit the Akha villages in the surroundings.

The Akhas are an ethnic group originally from Yunnan province in China, now found in Myanmar, Thailand, and Laos. There are numerous branches of this people, including the Akha Pixor, Akha Pala, and Akha Ya-er. The different types of Akha can easily be distinguished by the adornments worn by the women.

During my travels in northern Laos, I set out to meet this mountain people. What is interesting about the Akha villages is that they are very rarely visited by tourists, making it a pure delight for anyone seeking to experience an authentic culture.

Here, I present the Akhas I met around Boun Neua, along the road between this village and Ou Tai, as well as those I encountered in the vicinity of Pak Nam Noi.

The Akha Villages Around Boun Neua

Upon arriving in the village of Boun Neua, we meet our guide, who will take us to the Akha villages. Boun Hong (pronounced “bonhomme”) will lead us through the jungle for the next three days.

Although some Akha villages are accessible by road, we decided that for more adventure, we would head to those that can only be reached by walking. There’s a lot of fun ahead, especially since we’re in the midst of April, the hottest month in Laos!

After four hours of hiking in the sweltering heat, we reach our first Akha village, where we will spend the night. Although the area is not prone to flooding, the houses here are built on stilts, providing shelter for the numerous roosters and pigs wandering through the village.

Quickly, we are surrounded by village children eager to have their photos taken, bursting into laughter every time they see the results. Several men come to welcome us, but there are no women in sight. We’re told they are in the fields at this hour.

In the evening, the women return from the fields wearing their finest adornments. This village is home to the Akha Pixor. The women of this ethnic group can be recognized by their black headdresses styled like “Napoleon Bonaparte hats.” Coins, some dating back to the Indochina era, are sewn onto these headdresses. Their traditional clothing also features various broderies, with designs varying from woman to woman, undoubtedly adding to their elegance.

The next morning, the roosters wake us up quite early. Meanwhile, the women rush off to the fields just as quickly. We also decide to follow suit to enjoy the cool morning temperatures, as we have several hours of hiking ahead to reach our second Akha village.

On the way, we pass several active forest fires. The Laotians have a rather harmful habit of burning fields before clearing and planting. In April, several hectares are set ablaze, giving the sky a slightly darker hue than usual.

I don’t know about you, but walking through a forest fire to get to a village is quite alarming. Knowing that forests are burning not too far from the village doesn’t exactly help one sleep soundly at night. Nevertheless, we arrive at our second Akha village completely unscathed.

This hillside village is smaller than the first but just as charming. Here too, the women work hard in the fields wearing their finest clothing. We see some returning from their long day, heavily laden.

In the evening, our host treats us to dinner like a feast. On the menu: bamboo shoots, boiled squash, roasted peanuts, scrambled eggs, and unidentified leafy vegetables. With an Akha massage on the side before bedtime, we will sleep quite well despite the nearby forest fires!

The Akha Villages between Boun Neua and Ou Tai

After staying in two Akha villages around Boun Neua, my companion Vincent and I wanted more. With our scooters, we decided to make the journey between Boun Neua and Ou Tai, heading towards the Chinese border. Since this border is closed to tourists, we wouldn’t see any other foreigners around.

The road through the northern Laos mountains offers stunning views. However, since it is unpaved, we’ll be “biting” the dust during the two days we’re traveling it.

Aside from the beauty of the landscapes and the feeling of exploring an uncharted corner of the country, our desire to traverse this road stems from the wish to meet even more Akhas. Fortunately, along this route, there are numerous villages inhabited by this ethnic group.

An interesting detail is that Akha women are quite shy when it comes to photographs. If I brought out my camera, they would usually retreat to their homes or signal that they didn’t wish to be captured on film.

As Vincent and I were in no rush, we took the time to show them photos we had previously taken. Each time, it was amusing to see the villagers gather around the camera to view the images snapped in earlier villages.

While the women carefully examined the adornments of other women in the photos, the men were more interested in pictures showing the villages. So, after looking at my previous photos, the women themselves would ask if I could photograph them to add to my collection. They would take time to style their hair and adjust their attire to help me capture their best portrait. This is how I managed to immortalize what I believe are my most beautiful photos of Laos.

The Akha Villages Around Pak Nam Noi

In the vicinity of Pak Nam Noi live the Akha Pala and Akha Ya-er. The former are distinguished by their strikingly colorful embroidery, pink necklaces, and pointed headdresses.

The Akha Ya-er, on the other hand, have headdresses adorned with coins and braids. To meet these ethnic groups, I recommend visiting Pak Nam Noi on market day. There’s a significant concentration of Akha people, and the vibrancy of the place will surely thrill you.

Tips and Advice for Meeting the Akhas in Northern Laos:

While it is possible to organize a trek to visit Akha villages directly from Boun Neua, it may be simpler to do so from Phongsali. There, a tourism office can arrange a tailored trek based on the number of days you desire and the price you are willing to pay. The hardest part will be deciding which villages to visit among the many accessible ones. You will soon realize that you need to plan more days than you thought to explore this part of the country. Believe me, meeting the Akhas is addictive!

It’s not really feasible to visit the Akha villages around Boun Neua without a guide. The villages are isolated, and due to the language barrier, you may not fully enjoy your stay on your own. However, if you wish to be independent, discovering the villages along the road between Boun Neua and Ou Tai and meeting the ethnic groups at the Pak Nam Noi market can be done without a guide.

Don’t expect too much comfort for your nights in the Akha villages. Your bed will consist of a straw mat!