Although I am used to traveling, this year of backpacking in Australia was the best travel experience I’ve had. A few years ago, I couldn’t have imagined myself heading to the other side of the world with just a backpack, unsure of where I would sleep or who I would meet. I began my journey in Sydney, traveling up the east coast to Cairns, then across to Darwin, and finally down through the heart of the country to Adelaide. Come along as I take you to explore this wild and epic country!
The Preparations Taking a year off for backpacking requires at least a bit of preparation!
Applying for an Australian Visa
I started by applying for the Working Holiday Visa online through the official website of the Australian Department of Immigration. This fantastic temporary visa allows French nationals up to the age of 36 to visit and work in the country for a year.
The application is straightforward and can be completed online in just a few clicks. You create an account called ImmiAccount on the site and provide some information about your health, marital status, etc. Once this step is complete, you need to attach scanned official documents like your passport and proof of funds. To enter the country as a backpacker, you must have at least 3,000$ in your bank account to support yourself until you find work.
The Working Holiday Visa comes with a fee. After submitting your application, you will need to pay around €300 (depending on the exchange rate) before it is approved.
I was pleasantly surprised to see my visa issued after just 3 weeks on the Australian Department of Immigration website. What a joy!
Buying the Flight Ticket and Planning the Itinerary
Once I secured my visa, I was able to take advantage of a discounted rate for my flight tickets. I purchased my round trip from Paris to Sydney online several months in advance for about $800 instead of over $1,000 without the visa. To get this rate, I used the e-Australia website, which has a specific search engine to find the best deals for flights to Australia and New Zealand. The site regularly negotiates rates with airlines for Working Holiday Visa holders, which is how I managed to book my flight with Etihad Airways.
With the formalities taken care of, I could finally enjoy the most pleasant part of travel preparation: establishing an itinerary based on the curiosities to see in the country. I read books, guides, blogs, websites, forums, etc., to ensure I wouldn’t miss anything! That’s how I decided to focus only on the central and eastern parts of the country while dedicating a few months to working on farms to fund my travels.
Backpacking Along the East Coast of Australia Sydney: The Backpacking and Party City!
My flight landed in Sydney. I remember the sweltering heat at the airport and the sounds of exotic birds as soon as I stepped outside!
Sydney is a bustling cosmopolitan city with a festive atmosphere, similar to other major European cities. The dorms at my hostel resembled an open bar more than a sleeping space! Reluctantly, I began searching for work online (on classified sites like Gumtree) and also directly in restaurants and hostels. To no avail. In reality, I didn’t particularly want to stay in the city while dreaming of vast, wild landscapes!
I took advantage of a few days in the country’s administrative capital to meet up with a friend, Maud, whom I had met in London a few months earlier. Together, we visited the Sea Life aquarium, home to nearly 13,000 marine creatures, before snapping some photos in front of the iconic Opera House and Sydney Harbour Bridge.
It was in Sydney that I opened my first bank account in Australia! I absolutely needed one to work on Australian territory and withdraw cash without fees. I chose, somewhat randomly, the Commonwealth Bank. I went directly to a branch where a consultant helped me open my account in just half an hour. I only had some papers to sign, my passport to present, and a proof of address to provide. For this proof, the hostel’s address worked perfectly (as long as I stayed there for at least a week to receive my bank card). In addition to receiving my salary, a bank account allows backpackers to collect “superannuation,” which is a mandatory retirement contribution from employers that you can reclaim at the end of your trip on the Australian government website.
In the following days, I spent my time wandering through the breathtaking botanical gardens of Sydney, which showcase a variety of plant species. My irresistible urge for nature then led me to the Wild Life Zoo, where numerous native animals are gathered.
I ended my stay by climbing the Sydney Tower, the observation tower that offers a fantastic 360-degree view of the Australian city. The ticket price is a bit steep for a backpacker (around $20), but the visit is worthwhile!
Visiting the Blue Mountains
Sydney was the perfect starting point for a day trip to the Blue Mountains. Through a local agency, I was able to explore a section of the 140 kilometers of walking trails, nestled in eucalyptus forests, bordered by rocks, caves, and waterfalls, where a diverse and majestic wildlife thrives!
Coffs Harbour: The Backpacker’s Bananas
I left the bustling city of Sydney by Greyhound bus for the coastal city of Coffs Harbour. There, banana plantations meet the sea, and I thought there might be a shortage of labor for harvesting the delicious yellow fruit… So I decided to give it a shot! Unfortunately, I arrived at a hostel where backpackers my age were fleeing en masse because there was no work available.
Nonetheless, I took the opportunity to explore the beach where the water wasn’t as turquoise as I had hoped, ride my bike through the magnificent banana fields, and visit the city’s botanical gardens.
I departed Coffs Harbour by train to reach Brisbane.
Brisbane: The Easy-going Backpacking City
My journey continued in Brisbane, about 450 kilometers from Coffs Harbour. I found this city to be much calmer than Sydney. I only stayed for a few days, which I felt was enough time to explore and visit the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary. Located about 20 minutes from Brisbane, this park is the largest koala reserve in the world.
Koalas are currently an endangered species. They struggle to find food, and those seen on the side of the road are extremely thin. This sanctuary allows them to breed and receive proper nourishment.
In this city, I met other backpackers with whom I exchanged good tips. Apparently, there was agricultural work in Laidley, a small town about 100 kilometers south of Brisbane. I decided to take the bus there.
Laidley: The Australian Town in Cowboy Times!
I was welcomed at the bus stop by another backpacker who gave me a ride to our shared accommodation. There, I mingled with Germans, Lithuanians, Koreans, French, and Swedes in a very “potluck” atmosphere. I appreciated this blend of cultures and felt comfortable.
I found my first job at a factory: packaging broccoli into cardboard boxes. It wasn’t a job I particularly enjoyed, but it helped me pay for my accommodation.
The town is small, with only two convenience stores, a few shops, and a karaoke bar that allowed us to have some fun on the weekends among housemates.
By chance, the Laidley Rodeo Show was happening during my time in the town. I attended a rodeo competition surrounded by passionate Australians, who willingly invited me to try a corn dog, a type of battered sausage on a wooden stick. It was a magical moment where I experienced the festive atmosphere of the Australian countryside!
After three weeks, the broccoli factory no longer needed me. I then decided to continue my journey. I took the bus to Wamuran, a town about 150 kilometers from Laidley.
Wamuran: The Land of Farm Jobs!
Wamuran is well-known among backpackers seeking work on farms and fruit plantations. Strawberry and pineapple growers are constantly in need of pickers.
I stayed with a couple who occasionally hosted backpackers. I shared a room with two Taiwanese who were picking strawberries at a nearby farm. I heard that strawberry picking didn’t pay well, so I cycled around pineapple farms to offer my services. I also took the Australian paper directory and looked in the Yellow Pages for farms around Wamuran. I made a list and decided to call them one by one. I was told there wasn’t enough space for girls because pineapple picking is very physical work. I convinced one of the farms to let me try out. I started at a farm where the owner was kind. I proved myself, and a few days later, I was hired. I stayed there for four months.
I worked a lot and saved as much as I could to continue my travels. While in Wamuran, I took the opportunity to explore the surroundings. During one outing, I spotted a kangaroo and its joey right in front of a property. Kangaroos roam freely here!
On a day off, I hiked in the Glass House Mountains, steep volcanic peaks that are listed as part of Queensland’s heritage. Located just 25 minutes from Wamuran, the Glass House Mountains are renowned for their beauty and cultural significance to the Aborigines, especially the Gubbi Gubbi people. Several hiking trails are available. I chose to follow the one that took me to the top of a volcano for a magnificent view.
After working for four months, I finally decided to treat myself by visiting the places I had set out to see before leaving. Iconic spots, indeed touristy, but absolutely worth the visit!
Fraser Island: The World’s Largest Sand Island
I took a bus and then a boat to Fraser Island, the largest sand island in the world! It stretches for nearly 120 kilometers. With Christmas approaching, I decided to stay on the island and explore it with a group and a guide.
I explored the island by 4×4, swam in the turquoise McKenzie Lake bordered by white sand, spotted dingoes, and got lost in the spectacular Central Station Rainforest. I snapped some photos of the wreck of the Moheno, which washed ashore during a cyclone in 1935, and the Red Canyon, with its red and beige cliffs.
The Whitsundays: The Australian Gem
I continued my journey by bus to visit an Australian must-see: the Whitsundays! This archipelago of 74 islands, located between the northeast coast of Queensland and the Great Barrier Reef, is characterized by its turquoise waters, white sandy beaches, and tropical forests. A paradisiacal setting that’s worth the trip!
To get there, I took a boat from Airlie Beach, a coastal town known as the departure point for expeditions to the Whitsundays. Accompanied by a guide, I explored some islands by catamaran and enjoyed a snorkeling session. A memorable experience!
Cairns: The Last City of the Australian East Coast!
I took the bus headed for Cairns, 620 kilometers north of Airlie Beach. The journey was long and not very comfortable. Cairns was the first city where I encountered many Indigenous Australians. It was also here that I realized the struggles faced by this native people: poverty, alcoholism, delinquency, etc.
I also noticed the numerous bats hanging from the trees! It’s a modern city that gives ample space to wildlife and flora. I slept in a 15-bed room at a hostel, but it was clean and quiet. I already preferred this city to Sydney!
Cairns is the starting point for many excursions. I decided to treat myself to my first skydiving jump over the Great Barrier Reef, as well as my first diving lesson to observe marine life in the Great Barrier Reef. A memory to cherish!
After a few days in Cairns, I took the bus toward Cape Tribulation, located about 100 kilometers north of Cairns. Nestled in Daintree National Park, this stretch of land is bordered on one side by the Daintree rainforest and on the other by the Great Barrier Reef. I have fond memories of the many hikes I took in this national park.
I left Cape Tribulation to head to Darwin, the starting point for numerous multi-day excursions.
Backpacking in the Center of the Country
The center of the country represents for me a land of adventure. I chose to hire a guide for each place I visited. Admittedly, the cost of these excursions is relatively high for a backpacker, but I opted for the less expensive packages, favoring light meals and camping under the stars most of the time.
Litchfield National Park: The Park of Curiosities
I left Darwin for a multi-day excursion, starting with a visit to Litchfield National Park, about two hours by bus from Darwin. I joined a small group of friendly tourists, and our guide took us to explore Florence Falls, powerful waterfalls that plunge into a deep pool. We swam in the cool waters and explored the surroundings. We stumbled upon giant termite mounds: impressive!
Kakadu National Park: The Aboriginal Park
About three hours by bus from Darwin, we visited Kakadu National Park. A UNESCO World Heritage site, this park covers nearly 20,000 square kilometers and is characterized by its rich wildlife and flora. We hiked in the park, observed the Yellow Water, a billabong home to crocodiles, and visited the open-air rock art site of Nourlangie.
Uluru: The Symbol of Australia
The journey wouldn’t be complete without visiting this Australian symbol! Of course, it’s just a big rock that changes color depending on the time of day, but it is absolutely fascinating! Not only for its beauty but also for its history.
Also known as Ayers Rock, this 600-million-year-old rock is primarily a sacred site, steeped in the history of the Indigenous Australians. Climbing it is strictly prohibited.
I chose to hike around the rock for three and a half hours to make the complete circuit and see its color change slightly based on the sunlight. An unforgettable walk, filled with pleasant encounters with the surrounding wildlife and flora.
A tip: Choose excursions that start very early to see Uluru at sunset!
Kata Tjuta and King’s Canyon: Endless Rock Formations
These two sites are must-sees in Australia! If you visit Uluru, be sure to take a detour to hike in these two locations! Just 20 minutes from Uluru, Kata Tjuta is distinguished by its brightly colored rock domes. We spent an entire day hiking through these stunning landscapes!
Three hours’ drive from Uluru, King’s Canyon features ochre rock formations. We hiked there for a whole day to discover the many facets of this breathtakingly beautiful place!
Rather than returning to Darwin, I negotiated with the guide to drop me at a bus stop so I could head to the mining town of Coober Pedy.
Coober Pedy: The Australian Opal Town
Coober Pedy, located about a 9-hour drive from Adelaide, is the favorite town of opal seekers. This small town set in the Australian desert has a dry climate. The heat particularly struck me as I arrived. I spent a night in a cave hostel where the coolness was welcome! I took advantage of my short stay to visit an opal mine and stroll through a landscape that was both lunar and post-apocalyptic.
My backpacking experience in Australia is coming to an end…
Coober Pedy was the last stop on my backpacking journey. Before heading back to Sydney to catch my flight, I decided to make a quick stop in Adelaide. As a wine enthusiast, I took the opportunity to visit the Barossa Valley, Australia’s famous vineyard located 56 kilometers from Adelaide. I also wandered through the streets of Adelaide and visited the city’s national museum.
I wanted to divide this Australian adventure into two parts: the first focused on finding work to fund my travels, and the second where I could visit the iconic places of the east coast and the center of the country.
