Afghanistan is a country that generates a lot of discussion in the news, often for less than flattering reasons. The country is known for being at war and fairly unstable. While a very small handful of tourists venture there to discover what lies in this isolated country, the vast majority of backpackers hesitate to set foot in it.
During my recent trip to Tajikistan, I traveled alongside Afghanistan for about twelve days on the Pamir Highway. Afghanistan and Tajikistan are separated only by the Pyanj River, which at times is as little as 30 meters wide in certain places. One can practically reach out and touch Afghanistan.
As you might guess, the road that runs along Afghanistan (but on the Tajik side) is spectacular. It follows the Pyanj River, passes through numerous small villages, is surrounded by mountains, and offers a constant view of Afghanistan just across the water. In short, it’s paradise for road trip enthusiasts.
Throughout the time spent driving on this Tajik road, one observes Afghanistan and feels frustrated by being so close yet not able to venture across. You can catch glimpses of the country, observe some villages, and even wave at the Afghans standing along the riverbank (they are quite friendly, by the way!). However, to actually meet them, you would have to cross one of the bridges spanning the river, but that seems to come with its risks.
Fortunately, the Afghan market in Khorog takes place every Saturday! Khorog is the capital of the Pamir region in Tajikistan and is located at the border with Afghanistan.
Every Saturday, Afghans cross the bridge that separates the two countries after going through thorough checks by the Tajik military. This is their opportunity to sell their goods at good prices to the Tajiks. For me, it was a chance to meet them and capture some candid photographs. Here, I present to you portraits of Afghans from the Khorog market.
Tips and Advice for the Afghan Market in Khorog: The Afghan market in Khorog is somewhat precarious. It was actually closed for a year from 2015 to 2016 and has just recently reopened (as of July 2016). Given the situation in Afghanistan, the market could be suspended at any moment. Once in Khorog, make sure to check with the travel agency (PECTA) to see if the following Saturday’s market will be taking place.
If you’re looking for accommodation in Khorog, I highly recommend the Pamir Lodge. Said, the host, is incredibly kind and can help organize just about anything (transport, treks, etc.). It’s also the main hub for nearly all backpackers who visit Khorog. So, if you’re looking for companions to share a jeep and explore the surroundings, this is the ideal place! However, the lodge is a bit away from the city center (plan for a 15-minute walk).
Thanks.
