Located in the southwest of Argentine Patagonia, at the border with Chile, Perito Moreno is part of Los Glaciares National Park. This immense glacier spans an area of 250 km² and extends for 30 km, making it a must-see in the region. Like the Grey Glacier in Torres del Paine, it is part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field (the third largest ice cap in the world after Antarctica and Greenland).
When I set out to explore Perito Moreno, I did not expect to be so overwhelmed when I finally came face to face with this glacier. Below, I’ll explain how to get there, the various ways to view it, and what to do in the surrounding area.
Before Heading to Perito Moreno
Before visiting Perito Moreno, you must first reach the nearest city, El Calafate, located in the province of Santa Cruz near Lake Argentino. Several options are available depending on your starting point: If you’re traveling from Buenos Aires by car or bus, expect a journey of about forty hours through Argentina to reach this part of the country. Travel times in Patagonia can be quite long due to the vast distances between towns, but the landscapes are stunning, making the journey worthwhile! There is also an airport located near the city (roughly a 3-hour and 15-minute flight from Buenos Aires).
In my case, I was coming from Torres del Paine in Chile, so I took the bus from Puerto Natales. It’s an easy 5.5-hour bus ride to El Calafate. While the journey is rich in scenery, I was struck by the contrast between the two parts of Patagonia! Between Puerto Natales and the Argentine border, you see many mountains, lush green fields, and diverse wildlife. Once you cross the border, the landscape shifts to vast, arid plains, occasionally dotted with guanacos along the roadside. This scenery remains consistent until reaching El Calafate.
Exploring El Calafate
El Calafate serves as the departure point for many excursions. Before heading to Perito Moreno, I recommend taking some time to explore this charming little town. You can visit its museum dedicated to the history of Patagonia, taste a “cordero patagonico,” enjoy a drink in an Ice Bar, or head to Laguna Nimez to observe local wildlife.
I arrived at the city’s bus terminal in the early afternoon and decided to stroll around a bit. With no time to go to the lagoon, I opted to explore the lake that borders El Calafate. Many birds, particularly ibises, can be seen there. Regarding accommodations, it’s easy to book a hostel in the town. Mine was conveniently located next to the bus terminal, costing just about ten euros for a night in a four-person dorm. Hostels are a great way to save money and meet people from around the world. In my room, I befriended an Argentine and a French traveler who had just begun their tour of Latin America.
Departing for Perito Moreno
To get to Perito Moreno from El Calafate, you can rent a car, hitchhike, or take a bus. The third option costs around twenty euros and allows you to visit Perito Moreno in either the morning or the afternoon. Since I had another bus scheduled for the afternoon, I opted for the morning ride. The bus departs at 8:30 AM and returns from the glacier at 1:30 PM. The journey takes about an hour and a half.
From the bus, we first reach the entrance to Los Glaciares National Park, pay the entrance fee, and then continue by bus to the glacier. For foreigners, the entry ticket is approximately 20 euros. The scenery inside the park is breathtaking; you can initially spot the glacier from a distance, standing out in the middle of the lake.
Discovering the Argentine Glacier
The visit to Perito Moreno occurs from several walkways that offer different viewpoints of the glacier. You first access the main walkways before being able to take a trail through the woods, an upper circuit that brings you close to the glacier, and a coastal path for a more distant view. As for the travel times indicated on the signs, they are quite generous; you have plenty of time to traverse each walkway multiple times and take many breaks. Allow less than two hours to tour the walkways and observe Perito Moreno. During the summer season (November to March), outdoor temperatures are much warmer than the rest of the year. This is the perfect time to witness massive blocks of ice break off from Perito Moreno and plunge into Lake Argentino. I recommend dressing in warm, waterproof clothing; the wind can be strong, and the weather can change quickly.
Boat Excursion
Another way to visit Perito Moreno is by renting a kayak or taking a boat tour. I had not planned on doing this, but after quickly exploring the walkways, I decided to join the excursion. You can book it in advance at the El Calafate bus terminal or purchase tickets directly on-site. Be cautious, as credit cards are not widely accepted; it’s better to have cash with you. The boat excursion costs around twenty euros, lasts an hour, and allows you to get much closer to the glacier. You navigate Lake Argentino through massive drifting icebergs. Lake Argentino covers an area of over 1,500 km², making it the largest and southernmost of the major lakes in Argentine Patagonia.
During the excursion, the previously sunny sky began to cloud over, and it started to rain. I found myself soaked, but the view was breathtaking: we were face-to-face with a glacier that rises 74 meters above the water (with a total height of 170 meters). The boat gets as close as possible to the glacier while maintaining a safety distance, then circles around the floating icebergs in the lake before heading back to the dock.
Walking on the Glacier
The final way to discover Perito Moreno is to walk directly on the glacier. This extraordinary experience, however, comes at a price: around 100 euros for one and a half hours of walking, and more than 160 euros for a full-day package, which includes about three and a half hours on the glacier. It’s necessary to book several weeks in advance through the Hielo y Aventura agency for the full-day package called Big Ice.
Experiencing a glacier like Perito Moreno up close is unique. With climate change, many glaciers are disappearing over the years, so it is a privilege to observe one so closely today. In fact, Perito Moreno is one of only three glaciers in Patagonia that is advancing rather than retreating: it moves forward by about 700 meters each year, or about two meters a day.
After visiting the Perito Moreno Glacier, you can easily head to El Chaltén, the starting point for hikes to view Mount Fitz Roy.